What to eat in a Russian-style banya in Brooklyn—plus, Honduran food in Jersey City

And 5 other recommendations from around NY, NJ, and Philly

“There is no general in the banya,” is what Rustam Zaripov tells me as he takes me through the many saunas of his 45 year-old bathhouse in South Brooklyn. “Because you’re in shorts, and you’re naked. I can’t see if you’re a general, or a movie star.

“Everybody’s equal here,” he declares. He then slaps me with oak branches, pours me kvass, and treats me to one of the better meals of my life.

This is Bath Club of NY. Rustam, a former nuclear engineer who fled Uzbekistan after the collapse of the Soviet Union, has been running it since 1998. I ask him about the rumor that Eastern Promises-style Russian gangsters would meet here. “A long time ago,” he admits. “Because in sauna, 190 degrees, you can record nothing there. No wires. They can speak freely.

“They used to come, talk, have nice food. Then sometimes go to the peace, or sometimes go to the war.”

The Bath Club is dripping in history and condensation. Originally called The Russian Bath of NY, its name was changed after the outbreak of the Ukraine-Russian war (a table of old-timers, called “The Odessa Crew,” seemed to appreciate the name change). Across from the indoor pool is a sports bar, where the jerseys of famous Russian hockey players hang proudly. There are 4 saunas: One for men, one for women, and two co-ed saunas. Inside one of them, I sat with a boxing trainer and his student. He’s training her to qualify for Greece in the next Olympics.

But I came here, if you can believe it, for the food. The cuisine here jumps between post-Soviet countries: Khachapuri from Georgia, varenyki from Ukraine, pelmeni from Russia. House-made pickles are found on nearly every table, effervescent from fermentation.

Above all, my Moldovan friend from Brooklyn suggested I try the kotleti posharsky, a fried chicken meatball that’s hollowed out table-side and filled with an orange mushroom sauce. The mashed potatoes on the side are piped and sit on the plate swirled, like soft serve. Chased with an ice-cold Hofbrau, it is one of the most satiating experiences I’ve had to date.

You can watch the full experience here, and I’ve discussed some of my other thoughts about this place in the subscriber-only chat. As Rustam declares at the end of the video, “This is Brooklyn.” - Rob Martinez

📍 Bath Club of NY
1196 Gravesend Neck Rd, Brooklyn, NY 11229

Rec #2 - Tacos, Empanadas, and Baleadas in Jersey City

I was long overdue for a visit to Jersey City’s Perquín. Chef Bryan Girón’s Paulus Hook restaurant is not shy—the space is scattered with Latin-inspired graffiti and vibrant colors. Frozen margaritas and rum punch sit on nearly every table. On weekends, they clear the floor for salsa classes, where locals dance and drink into the wee hours.

At its core, Perquín reflects Bryan’s travels through Central and South America. His menu pulls inspiration from his childhood, which began in Honduras, before eventually immigrating to New Jersey. He combines this with a years-long devotion to studying the flavors of Latin America as a whole—both the well-known dishes, and the hidden gems.

You taste these influences in every bite. Empanadas are stuffed with seasoned beef, fried to a golden hue, and served with habanero salsa—packed so full it’s a miracle they don’t burst at the seams. A taco special filled with charred octopus, pineapple salsa, crema, and cilantro hits the table—a sort of “Al Pastor goes aquatic” vibe and one of the night’s best bites. Nearby, a basket of Salchipapas stacks hand-cut fries, fried chorizo slices, wagyu hot dogs, an Nduja crema of sorts and bright aji verde. They pair perfectly with a cold Cusqueña or an aged rum daiquiri.

Flour tortillas are the lifeblood of Perquín. Each and every one is rolled to order, which Bryan tells me is “a pain in the ass… but so worth it.” Tender, flaky, and thicker than your typical tortilla, they are ideal for the house-favorite Baleada. The Honduran street food starts simple—with a flour tortilla, refried beans, and salty queso fresco—but Perquín’s version adds plantains, avocado, and sumac onions, bringing a subtle Middle Eastern influence into the picture that can be found across Latin America.

Perquín leans into that influence even more with Tacos Árabes: chicken shawarma, spiced fries, garlicky toum, and sumac onions come rolled in a fresh tortilla, with habanero salsa on the side. Once only found as a special, it’s now a menu staple. Bryan admits he has one for dinner nearly every night, which I do not blame him for even a little bit.

A meal at Perquín unfolds like a travel log. Bryan draws on more than a decade of experience in New Jersey and Manhattan kitchens to showcase his love for Latin food and culture, delivering some of the most unique and flavorful bites you’ll find on this side of the Hudson in the process. I’m hooked. - Peter Candia

📍 Perquín
85 Morris St, Jersey City, NJ 07302

Peter Candia is the Food & Drink Editor at New Jersey Digest.

Behind the paywall: Lindsay Paulen highlights Brooklyn’s exciting new Cambodian restaurant, Mike Diago finds Sinaloan seafood in Passaic, Tony Tastes tries the tuna melt at a wine bar in Manhattan, Jacob Does Philly indulges in a Monday-only cheeseburger in Philly, and Steven Graf heads to Hicksville.