A 4th-Generation Sushi Chef opens in Ridgewood

Plus 4 other recommendations from NYC, NJ, and Philly

In a tiny kitchen, at the farthest end of a tiny restaurant, Jiro Iida is behind frosted glass, cutting fish. Once my sashimi bowl is plated in its cardboard bowl, carefully and beautifully, he peaks out wearing a Yankees cap, and drops it at the counter. This is the only glimpse of Jiro that I get on my first 2 visits to Hi-Node, in Ridgewood, Queens.

I have seen restaurant businesses rise and fall at 68-38 Forest Avenue. First it was Cafe Esencia, a Spanish cafe that served pisto, pan con tomate, and churros cooked in a massive, traditional deep-fryer. They left in 2019. (Andres, the owner, is now living in Spain. He’s also my Spanish teacher. Ciao Andres!)

For the next 5 years it was Cafe Plein Air, a restaurant that challenged the limitations of the too-small space. In the Covid years, they filled every seat in their heated outdoor dining area. But once the city made it too hard for operators to get permits for “streeteries”, diners had to squeeze inside to get their french omelettes and fantastically-crisp potatoes. They had their last service in March.

Now, Hi-Node is taking its turn in the tiny spot on Forest. Unlike its predecessors, Hi-Node is a grab-and-go concept: There are matcha lattes with seasonal syrups, beautifully-arranged sashima rice bowls, sushi hand-rolls, and onigiri. A pork tonkatsu sandwich is one of the few cooked items on the menu.

In Tokyo, Jiro’s family goes back 4 generations in the sushi business. His grandfather’s surname, Hinode, lends its name to the restaurant (it also translates to “sunrise” in Japanese), and his father ran a sushi restaurant in Tokyo up until his passing. His brother now runs a sushi restaurant in Vegas, while in New York, Jiro had a hand in Soba Totto, Yakitori Totto, and Aburiya Kinnosuke before opening Salt + Charcoal in Williamsburg.

With Hi-Node, the focus is back on fish. The sashimi bowl is simple and fresh: Unlike at MOGMOG in LIC, the rice comes unseasoned. Instead, Jiro gives soy sauce, sesame oil, and wasabi on the side, and tops the bowl with edamame, seasoned shiitakes, seaweed salad, and ikura. It’s a clean lunch, and one that won’t have you lingering on one of the restaurant’s four indoor tables.

I haven’t had a chance to try the karaage, tonkatsu, or grilled-eel bowls, but I did watch Mike Chau devour a wagyu yakiniku rice ball sandwich. I let Jiro know there was an influencer in his front yard, and offered to kick him off the premises. (joking. we like Mike Chau.) - Rob Martinez

📍 Hi-Node
68-38 Forest Ave, Ridgewood, NY 11385

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